Different things to know about the Lil house heater

1. Locate the heater where it is putting the heat into a living room, dining room or other large room. Don’t blow the heated air into a bedroom, unless it is a spare.

2. Do try to locate the heater on any side but the north, the sun never shines much on the north so it stays damp and messy all winter. The north can be used, but it is the last alternative.

3. Set your stove up high enough off the ground that you don’t have to bend over to load wood in it. It doesn’t matter where the heat duct goes thru the wall or window as far as height off the floor.

4. The stove needs to be close to level but you want it to have some tilt so water will not stand on it. Try to drain if off a back corner so your not having the water run off where your standing to load wood.

5. Wire the stove to the electrical code in your area.

6. The heat duct must stick thru the inside wall at least 2 inches into the house. Don’t let curtains or anything combustible be hanging in front of the heat duct.

7. Make sure you follow the local fire code for your area in regards to height and distance from the building with the chimney pipe.

8. While learning to use the stove, don’t over fill the stove with wood. It is better to have to add wood than have your house way too hot.

9. Keep your wood covered always. Dry wood makes less creosote and makes more heat!

10. When installing the blower cover make sure it is “centered” on the blower itself.

11. In the spring take down the chimney pipe and remove the top collar and beauty ring off the top of the stove and SEAL a container over the chimney hole. If you don’t seal it you will have water running down the outside of the drum rusting it out.

12. I also suggest that you repaint the door frame each spring to keep it from rusting.

13. Anytime you are in doubt about something contact me or the factory.

14. I like to take the ashes out on an ongoing basis. The heater burns the wood front to back, so you can usually take out a couple of scoops of dead ashes morning or night. Be sure and cover the ash bucket as coals can be “alive” for a long time!

15. Don’t modify the heater in any way, it voids the warranty!

16. In the spring after you have taken down the chimney and sealed the top, you need to clean out all the ashes. Then use some used motor oil and coat the inside of the drum so it will not rust during the summer.

17. Never burn any spray cans in the heater they can explode and rupture the drum.

18. Your cold air returns need to be carefully installed so that you don’t have a smashed area or kink in it somewhere. Always use a fresh roll of duct tape to install your heater.

19. Don’t let animals have access to the cold air return; they will smash it down reducing the heaters airflow.

20. Usually one day is all that is required to install a heater. I suggest a “buddy” to help you install your heater.

21. Remember round wood lasts longer than split wood and once again DRY WOOD IS BEST. Cut your wood the length your wife or girlfriend can handle. A commercial wood splitter can only split 24 inch wood. You can burn up to 32 inch long wood. I suggest 27-29 inch when you don’t have to split it.

22. I usually fill my heater with some wood around 6-7 p.m. and then fill it again at 9-10 p.m. If you fill it all at once in really cold weather you can smother the coals and the heater will may not come back on for quite sometime.

23. The first two weeks of operation are the toughest; you have to learn how to burn wood outside. It is different than a stove in the house.

24. Once you get the manual set draft set to your house, you shouldn’t have to move it much. Instead of opening the draft when building a fire, just leave the door loose all you have to do is shut the door later.

25. Follow the directions for installation in the Lil’House heater brochure. Be sure and return the warranty card to the factory.

26. **Make sure that your county or city doesn't have a code that prohibits having a outdoor or outside wood heater or furnace.**

>> Other Things you need to know!<<

Locate the heater where it is putting the heated air into a living room, dining room or other large room. Don't blow the heated air into a bedroom, unless it is a spare.
Do try to locate the heater on any side of the house but the north.... the sun never shines much on the north so it stays damp.
Set your stove up high enough off the ground that you do not have to bend over to load wood into it. It doesn't matter if the heat duct is not at ground level going into the house.(Mine is approximately 2.5 feet from the floor.)
The stove needs to be close to level but you want it to have some tilt to it so water will not stand on it, try to drain it off to the back. That way you are not standing in the water.
Wire the stove to the electrical codes of your area.
The heat duct must stick through the wall at least 2 inches in the house past the inside wall. Don't let curtains be near the heat duct.
Make sure you follow the local fire code for your area in regards to height and distance from building with chimney.
While learning to use the stove, don't over fill the stove with wood, it is better to have to add wood than have your house way too hot.
Keep your wood covered always. Dry wood makes less creosote and makes more heat! READ THIS AGAIN! KEEP YOUR WOOD DRY!
When installing the blower cover make sure it is "centered" on the blower itself.
In the spring take down the chimney pipe and remove the top collar and the ring off the top of the stove and SEAL a container of some sort over the chimney hole. If you don't seal it with silicon you will have water running down on the firebox, rusting it out.
I suggest in the spring after the season is over to paint with high heat paint the door and frame.
Anytime you are in doubt about something contact either me or the factory. We welcome your questions!
In the fall you can heat your house to "case the chill out" by just burning your paper trash.... it makes heat and goes out. I like to take ashes out on a ongoing basis........when you come home from work in the evening your fire will be in the back of the stove, and you will have ashes in the front. Take them out (putting them in a covered container) and then pull the coals back to the front.
Don't try to modify the stove in anyway......it voids the warranty!
In the spring after the chimney is down, clean out all the ashes you can. Then coat the firebox on the inside with used motor oil to keep it from rusting. Remember the stove is guaranteed against burn out........not rust out!
keep spray cans out of the trash........they can rupture your firebox when they exploded.
Your cold air returns needs to be carefully installed so that you don't have a smashed area or kink in it. Always use a new roll of duct tape when you install you heater.
Don't let animals have access to the cold air return; they will smash it down, reducing the heaters ability.
When you pick up your heater listen to Scott tell you the tips and tricks, it will save headaches later.
Usually one day is all that is required to install a heater, I suggest a "buddy" to help you install your heater. Try to pick someone that doesn't think it will work.........you can show them!
Remember round wood lasts longer than split wood, and once again...........DRY WOOD IS BEST. Always cut your wood the length and sizes your wife or girlfriend can handle!
In the early fall or late spring when not much fire is required, that is when creosote buildup is the worst. Try burning smaller wood, with more draft since it is warmer outside the air won't draw as well with uninsulated chimney pipe.
Dry wood makes much less cresote in the early fall and later winter. If you have creosote dripping off the raincap, your wood is NOT dry!
I usually fill my heater with some wood around 6-7 p.m. and then fill it again at 9-10 p.m. If you fill it all at once in really cold weather you can smother the coals and the heater may not come on for quite sometime.
The first two weeks of operation are the toughest, you have to learn how to burn wood outside.... it is different than a stove in the house.
Once you get the manual set draft set to your house, you shouldn't have to move it much. (Instead of opening draft when building a fire, just leave the door loose all you have to do is shut it up tight later.) That seems to be easier for me than moving the draft.
If it works tell others! If you have troubles tell us!
Follow the directions for installation in the Lil'House heater brochure